Nhi Ha is one of those places that is embedded in the soul of those who fought that ugly 14-day battle in May '68. Yesterday, once again, I stood on the ground that back then shook & roared with battle. From the battle's monument, I look to the sand dunes, from which NVA artillery batteries hammered us day and night. Another glance reveals Jones Creek, the banks of which provided life-saving cover to my squad May 6. Also obvious is the spot where we dug in and assaulted Nhi Ha until it was finally "taken". In reality, the enemy pulled back and waited for us to make the next move. I'm standing where many of my company perished and Bill Baird was captured. And, all the time, an enemy officer, Mr. Ba, is by my side. My comrades at Nhi Ha will certainly remember the bomb-damaged building where the captured NVA weapons were kept. In 2011, I found that building, which was being repaired and enhanced. Yesterday I (through Nhung) conversed with the occupant. Showing him photos from May '68, he verified that it is, indeed, the same building. I stood at my approximate bunker position, from which repeated NVA night attacks were countered. At the May 6 battle site, incense was lit in memory of Lt. William Kimball, whose razor I recovered from Col. Tha just a few days ago. It was sobering and chilling to realize that I was standing near where Kimball fell and, shortly thereafter, the razor
taken from his shirt pocket by the enemy. That razor today has taken on even more meaning to me. I am honored to be the soldier who will be returning it to Mrs. Kimball. More incense was ignited in memory of all 196th soldiers who perished at Nhi Ha. Allan Barnes' fate is somewhat clouded by the fact that we did not recover his body with the others on May 8. Bill Baird's body wasn't recovered, either, but in reality he had been captured and spent 5 1/2 years as a POW in Hanoi. It is reported that Barnes was last seen alive, though wounded, during that nightmare May 6 battle. His body was recovered September 22 along Jones Creek, somewhat north of the actual battle site. How he ended up there is a mystery that I feel will be solved with some effort. Yes, we could have missed his body on the May 8 KIA recovery. But, his remains were recovered away from the actual battle area. The answer exists. It will take a focused effort and that most likely must occur at Nhi Ha. That battle forever haunts those who fought it. "Nightmare Battle of Nhi Ha" was the title of the article in "Vietnam Magazine". It was...and is.
At Nhung's suggestion, we purchased 1,200 writing tablets for the kids at Nhi Ha Elementary School. Was that ever neat! I personally handed five tablets to each student, who had lined up in waiting. It was sweltering hot, but I enjoyed every soaked minute. Each student uttered a thank you in either Vietnamese or English. It was great.
Following the tablet handout, we went a short distance to the Kindergarten School, which is in serious need to repair. Water leaks and pretty bad conditions abound. We don't have the funds to tackle such a huge task, but provision of something like "cubbies" for the kids is possible. Anything that we can do helps. Many of these kids' grandfathers died in war, some right at Nhi Ha. 196th Infantry Nhi Ha veterans can't possibly visit without being bombarded with "connections".
Visiting Mr. Ba, the VC "resistance" leader in Nhi Ha area was another one of yesterday's highlights. This year, like last, he treated me like a fellow soldier rather than a former enemy. He was given 196th patches, which were provided by the 196th Light Infantry Association, and a nice, new rice cooker. The man certainly has a quick wit and sense of humor. We visited the cemetery where the NVA soldiers who were killed at Nhi Ha are buried and then continued on to the recently-completed memorial to the May 6 battle. A water buffalo, thought to have disliked G.I.'s , temporarily blocked our path. He glared at me, just like they did in '68.
The final phase of yesterday's Nhi Ha return involved walking the road and giving candy to appreciative kids. Maybe they're getting to expect such from me! This took place at our 1968 bunker positions. When there, it's a constant state of overload...memories stumbling over each other.
Neil
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| Delivering Writing Tablets-Nhi Ha School |
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| Five Tablets to Each Student |
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| 1,200 Tablets! |
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| Another Happy Student |
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| Candy for Nhi Ha Kids |
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| Nhi Ha-Candy for Children |
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| Neil May 6 '68-Bombed Out Building- Nhi Ha |
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| Same Building Today |
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| Neil & Owner of Building |
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| Neil (tough to see, huh?) & Mr. Ba |
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| 196th Light Infantry Patches to Mr. Ba |
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| Rice Cooker Gift to Mrs. Ba |
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| Kindergarten Staff-Nhi Ha |
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| NVA Cemetery-Nhi Ha |
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| Mr. Ba & Neil-NVA Cemetery-Nhi Ha |
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| NVA Cemetery (Jones Creek in Distance) |
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| Mr. Ba & Neil-May 6 Battle Monument |
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| Allen Barnes Discussion at May 6 Battle Site |
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| Lt. William Kimball Memorial |
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| Memorial-All 196th Infantry Losses at Nhi Ha |
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| Nhi Ha Water Buffalo |
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Neil's Bunker-Nhi Ha May '68
Approximate Bunker Site-Nhi Ha |
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| Neil's Bunker-Nhi Ha May '68 | | | | | |
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| Eastern Sea Near Nhi Ha |
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| Lunch on Eastern Sea Near Nhi Ha |
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| Goodbye Nhi Ha |
Thanks Neil for telling this story and sharing your pictures.
ReplyDeletethis makes my throat swell shut......this history needs to be known! Thank you, Neil. I remember while working together you showing me pictures of some of your time there and thinking how hard it was to grasp the reality of that.
ReplyDeleteLife during and since '68 has been pretty much a struggle for survival.
DeleteIts' tough any way you cut it, but returning to help folks over here helps. By the way, it was pleasure to work with you, Johna.
Neil