May 1 1125 Alaska Time Hannan Homestead

An Dy, the reporter who accompanied us on our March 30 visit to Luu Thi The (Son's mother), has just published her story:

http://www.thanhniennews.com/society/american-veteran-finds-peace-at-former-battlefield-in-vietnam-61611.html

Thanks to everyone who has followed the story of Son and who has contributed to our humanitarian effort. Our positive impact in Vietnam has exceeded my wildest expectations...and we're still rolling.

Neil

April 23 1500 Alaska Time Hannan Homestead

Well, I've returned to the cabin and am making an effort to get back in the groove following a very busy and most memorable four weeks in Vietnam. The beautiful tapestry, presented at the ceremony involving the return of Lt. Kimball's razor, survived the trip from Da Nang and was waiting for me at the post office. The Buddha statue, purchased at Marble Mountain, also made it with flying colors. However, there was concern when I opened the luggage to discover notice of TSA inspection, which had to have taken place at LAX. My carefully packaged statue had been unwrapped and just tossed back into the bag haphazardly...typical. Anyway, now it's perched atop my old oak Gibson icebox.
I knew that my most precious cargo, Lt. Kimball's razor, would make it OK, as it was securely transported in my carry-on daypack.  Now the method of getting it back to the family must be determined. It was an honor, after a year of effort, to be able return it to U.S. soil. I was amazed at the universal reception the story of the razor's return received. As mentioned,  the event was broadcast on national TV and featured in many newspapers throughout Vietnam. Plus, I carried a copy of one newspaper article with me at all times and wasn't shy about showing it to folks. Young and old alike would shake my hand. A young soldier, who knew of Col. Tha (I think that he's a well-known man in Vietnam), grasped my hand with both of his and bowed.  In my experience, American Vietnam War combat veterans are treated with high honor over there. Being showered with respect by the people of Vietnam, including their war veterans, is an honor that's difficult to describe.

Looming is the mission of making a water well for Duong a reality. The dust must settle a bit before I can even think of again surging forth...must recover first. The days following return always seem to be tough. I'll be back....

Neil

April 19 1445 Vietnam Time Saigon

Four busy, productive, rewarding, and often challenging weeks are drawing to a close. Having checked out of the hotel room, I'll be hanging out in the hotel lobby awaiting a 1600 departure to the airport for my 1900 flight.  This is my fifth trip back to the U. S. from Vietnam, the first being 47 years ago. Leaving now dredges up memories of that February '69 flight, one that I honesty never expected to make....alive, at least.

I'm pleased with what has been accomplished during the course of this trip. Lt. Kimball's razor will soon be back on U. S. soil and returned to his family. If it works out, I will deliver it in person. Khanh of Hearts for Hue is to be given much credit for keeping an open dialogue with Colonel Tha through the last year. And Thong's (damn guide) presence at the ceremony was critical, as he knows my company's military history at Nhi Ha and is an excellent interpreter. I consider both Khanh and Thong to be my loyal, trustworthy, and sincere friends.

The trip to the former LZ Colt area (where I joined my infantry company in Feb '68) involved visits with Thua, Lady The, and Duong. Lady The is set with enough canned milk, vitamins, and joint medication to last one year....about $40 cash, too. Son's grave was visited and incense lighted. Thua, too, now has plenty of joint joint meds, vitamins, and pain relievers for at least a year. Further, I served as deliveryman for a nice gift from a 196th veteran who served with Thua during the war, as well as a 196th t-shirt. Thua and I  paused to honor the memory of recently-passed Bill Bacon, who also served closely with him during the war.  Duong was provided with pain & joint meds, vitamins, food, 196th t-shirts, a TV, and a little cash. Discussions took place involving drilling a well for this 196th veteran...possibly this summer.

Then there was the hot and challenging ascent of LZ East, located in the 196th Light Infantry Brigade's area of operations. Unlike 2011, the view from the top was hazy. So, I need to try it again on the next trip and hope for clear skies.  Thong accompanied us to both the LZ Colt area and LZ East.

Near Hue, visits were made to Thuong, Ms. Hahn. and the one-legged ARVN veteran. In addition to small gifts, Thuong now has a new pig pen and his first-ever fridge. He is one elated camper. Each received either a pig or ducks, as well. In total, 10 pigs and 300 ducks were distributed to disabled individuals in a rural area near Hue. By the way, the banner at the distribution point was supposed to have read "Neil Hannan Donors".  In the printing, the word "donors" was somehow omitted....sorry. But, I make sure that everyone knows that our efforts are made possible through all of you and that I'm just the facilitator.  We were treated to a fine meal at Thuong's house....very tasty.  Khanh and I work together to "make it happen" in the Hue area. The contribution of his time and knowledge of the area are invaluable.

In Nhi Ha, with the guidance and assistance of Nhung of D.O.V. E. Fund, 1,200 writing tablets were distributed to the elementary school. We also toured the kindergarten facility, which is in dire need of repair. Such a project is well beyond our means, but maybe new cubbies would be doable. Mr. Ba, leader of all area VC troops during the war, was given a new rice cooker. He also accompanied us to the local VC/NVA cemetery and to the monument to the May 6, 1968 battle with my infantry company. At the battle site, a memorial was held for Lt. William Kimball, followed by another in honor of all 196th Infantry veterans who died fighting in and near Nhi Ha. As has been my custom, candy was distributed to Nhi Ha's children.  Nhung was with us every step of the way, which I appreciate immensely. I feel that future trips to this area will focus on schools and the children of Nhi Ha, a hamlet that was bombed into a pile of rubble during the war. memories abound...

Spending time with Khanh in Hue and Thong in Da Nang was a treat, as always. Without their help, I'd be as effective as boat with no rudder.  I can't thank them enough....

The above is an effort to just skim through the highlights of the last four weeks. More detail is available throughout the blog, though. Thanks to all for your interest and support, without which none of this could happen. It has all been amazing. I'll get periodic emails out regarding the status of our effort here in Vietnam. Also, I am open to any comments, suggestions, or criticism. For being "small potatoes", we sure are getting much accomplished...changing lives.  We stretch the heck out of a dollar. Well, the currency here is actually dong, but you get the idea.

 For now, though, I need to repack my bag and prepare to board the big bird for the flight home. Back to "The World", as we used to say...although it seemed very unlikely that we'd ever get there alive. I'll sign off with a goodbye salute from Duong...

Neil

Duong, Scout- 2nd Platoon, Company A,  3/21Infantry, 196th Light Infantry Brigade

April 16 1500 Vietnam Time Saigon

Well, we've relocated to a hotel in Saigon near the river, which is the last stop before home. It has been a fairly hot 98-99F of late with dripping humidity. But, the hotel room is nice and cool, as will be the temps at home.  Traveling has resulted in my being behind on blog entries.  Sorry.

After climbing LZ East four days ago, we stopped to visit Duong before setting forth for Da Nang. The day before, in Hoi An, I bought a 25" flat-screen TV to present to my 196th Light Infantry Brigade comrade. With no legs, being able to watch news and such makes life more tolerable. Let's go back two years. On February 26, 2014, I transferred funds to my former Vietnam "facilitator" for the purpose of securing a TV for Duong.  A generous "travel/expense contribution" for the facilitator was included.  On last year's trip, to my dismay, Duong advised that the TV had only worked for a few months and was no longer operative.  Checking the unit, I was shocked to see how huge, heavy, and antiquated it was.  I had been told, though, that it was a new unit. Anyway, now I have Thong and Khanh, both good and trusted friends, to help with efforts in Vietnam. The flat-screen TV just purchased is NEW with a two-year warranty. I have recorded Thong as the purchaser, which is a benefit if warranty service is required. Cost was $111 US.

OK, now I'll back up a bit. With advance notice of our arrival, Duong was patiently waiting at the road in his wheelchair. The cement path that we had built is immensely useful to him. He was smiling and looked good in the his new 196th Light Infantry t-shirt, which you may recall was produced and provided by another 196th veteran, Gary Bonar. I immediately presented Duong with a gift of bottled tea, quite a treat for him. His eyes really lit up, though, when the new TV was gifted. This new unit, unlike the stone-age one purchased in 2014,  is very light and embodies the latest technology. After making it to the house, we managed to figure out how to make required connections.  Great quality.
Thong will address any questions that Duong may have and will also handle any warranty service.

Further discussion involved a well for Duong, which seems to be a logical project. He currently has a hose running a great distance from a neighbor's house with water availability/quality being hit or miss. I had questions, though. Where would the well be drilled? The proposed location is between his house and the one next door. I confirmed that the water would be used strictly for Duong and not by others in the area. This was emphasized several times and Duong understands. Also, the pump must have a pressure switch, as Duong cannot get around to turn the pump on and off.  Further, I want the well drilled in the summer, when the water table is lowest....June/July. Thong will take the funds to Duong and insure that the project is completed properly. More on this as plans materialize. Thank goodness for friends like Thong!  He is, after all, the #1 Damn Guide in all of Vietnam.

After goodbye hugs for Duong, we headed for Da Nang, where we had no hotel secured. But, it took just a short time to land a four-star (unusual for me) at a very cheap price just one block from Thong's house....free upgrade to a 14th floor suite even. Amazing river view. Dinner was at a little sidewalk eatery...very tasty.

This has already been mentioned, but the following day we visited Marble Mountain with Thong's motorbikes. The carvings are just magnificent....jaw-dropping. Rarely do I purchase items to take home, but the desire for a Buddha statue couldn't be ignored. This is the traditional Buddha, which is found at the alters, not the the large-bellied, or "happy", Buddha. So, I'm now the proud owner of my very own Marble Mountain Buddha statue.

OK, now to hit the streets and see what's going on. I've thrown in a couple photos from the boat trip back from My Son holy land and a few more from the LZ East climb.

Neil

My Son to Hoi An River Trip

Ascending LZ East

Initial Section-LZ East Climb

Thong's Motobike Rescue

Neil & Local Guide-LZ East

LZ East Summit

Neil & Damn Guide-Da Nang

Neil & Duong-TV and Tea

Stone-Age TV-To Trash

Thong & Neil-New TV Set-Up

Infantry Comrades

Near Duong's House (LZ Colt)

Near Duong's House (LZ Colt)

Words Fail.....

April 14 2000 Vietnam Time Da Nang

We're now in Da Nang following a full day in my former AO (area of operations) yesterday. The flight to Saigon is soon.  A trip to Marble Mountain via Thong's motorbikes occupied much of this afternoon....bought a marble Buddha statue. I will dissect the events of yesterday into two posts, one involving the ascent of LZ (landing zone) East and the other a visit to Duong. It was an action-packed 12 hours, that's for sure.

Thong and my hired car arrived at the Hoi An hotel at 0700, right on time. Getting an early start was essential, as midday heat climbing LZ East could spell disaster. My only other post-war ascent was in 2011. I was admittedly a bit apprehensive as to how hard the trek would be with five more years under my belt. We arrived at the mountain's base around 0830 and, after being joined by a "local", began the journey with light daypacks around 0830.   The local man explained to Thong that he could arrange to take us 2/3 of the way up by motorbike for about $8 total. But, there is no way that I was going to agree to that. If we can't climb it "fair and square", then we don't go. So, off we went...

It was already very hot and the steepness of the initial 30 minutes or so was an indication of what to expect. There is some shade during the first stretch of the trip, but thereafter the sun just bakes you.
The local suggested a different route to the summit than taken in 2011...longer, but not as steep. So, we agreed. No shade and occasional stretches of flesh-slicing elephant grass accented the challenge. The final trudge to the top was very steep with no shade to seek shelter from the ever-rising heat. Periodic rest stops, maybe 30 seconds each, were required. My 196th comrades will recall the crashed chopper debris resting a short distance down from the summit.  The local guide confirmed my discovery of the location, though the chopper's remains have been buried by excavation. A small tree and large boulders at the summit allowed a much-needed oasis at which to recover. Unlike 2011, the view of LZ Center and the old AO was hindered by haze.  Still it was a good feeling to be once again standing up there. During my time in 'Nam in '68, East wasn't an active LZ/Fire Support Base. But, my infantry company sometimes ascended and set up on the mountain for a very short time. We did so, as I recall, not long after returning from the two-week battle on the DMZ/Nhi Ha. That must have been when Lt. Candler, who replaced Lt. Smith after his multiple wounds at Nhi Ha, arrived as my new platoon leader. If memory serves me correctly, his chopper was hit by small-arms fire in landing. To the men about to come under his leadership, it was no big deal....just another day. To the newly-arrived Lt. Candler, it must have felt a bit different. A month or so later, I was part of a four-man, four/five-day observation post on East. We began taking small arms fire, which forced us down from the summit. Hiding in the tall grass, we could see the NVA helmets bobbing around as they sought us out. Significantly outnumbered, we laid low instead of engaging the enemy. Anyway, like just about everywhere in our former AO, memories on East abound. Today I climbed with a small daypack. In '68, it was full combat gear.

I suppose the we spent about 45 minutes at the summit...taking photos, resting, and recharging our energy for the descent. There was a brief skirmish involving me, Damn Guide (Thong), and the local. See photo.

With the local guide selecting an alternate return route, off we went. I will mention that LZ East is changing form due to bulldozer activity intended to flatten areas for planting gum trees. Just a couple minutes after leaving the summit, we were on loose, steep dirt...unstable footing with frequent slides. And the heat. The fresh dirt seemed to convert the suns rays into an oven. I quickly made it down that steep, unstable section well ahead of the others. There I stood, baking, everyone else well up the slope. I could 't just stand there in that heat, not moving, much longer. Not drinking a single drop of water on the ascent, conditions forced me to down a couple swallows. My repeated yells for advice as to which direction to proceed met with what seemed to me to be confusion.  The local guide was obscured in bushes for some time and I could not figure out why. Finally, he pointed a direction and off I went, the others following. Upon reaching a logical spot to stop, I learned why the guide was delayed. In his hands was about 10-12 pounds of honeycomb, which he had discovered quite by accident shortly after we had started down. His hands dripping with honey, we kept moving downward. Thong had fallen twice, hurting his knee, so he was lagging quite a bit.  I finally, through motions, conveyed to the guide that I wanted a motorbike brought up to take him the rest of the way down the mountain. Dropping my pack, I then worked my way back up to where Thong was sitting to advice that he stay put and wait for the motorbike. Then it was back to my pack and down the mountain. The motorbike sped past en route to fetch Thong and, shortly thereafter, was on his way back down. He stopped to offer me a spot on the bike, which was refused. In the end, we all arrived back at the point of origin, sweat-soaked and weary, but in good shape.  By gosh, maybe this won't be my last trip up East.

At airport and need to publish now!

Neil

Ascending LZ/FSB East

Local Guide

From the Summit

Rest Break at Summit

Captured Damn Guide

Old Grunt Climbs it Again

April 12 2345 Vietnam Time Hoi An

It's going on midnight and I should be sleeping to charge my batteries for tomorrow's climb of LZ  East.  Five years ago, the ascent was fairly easy. Now, maybe not. It has been very hot, so plenty of water will be a certainty. There is no shade. But, the view of our former AO from the summit is amazing....unsettling at the same time. Memories will be bombarding.

OK, I have tonight purchased a 25" LED TV for Duong, which we'll deliver tomorrow....$111. Electronics are not so cheap here, but everything else is.

I can't recall the month, but my remote four-man OP (observation post) was hit by NVA on LZ East. Gary Krowl (sp) was one of the men...photo below.  This was taken after we were forced to move lower on the mountain.  NVA troops came so close to finding us in the tall grass. I recall Krowl saying, "Let's get 'em".  The reply was something like, "Shut up and stay down!". We had four and the NVA force appeared to be a platoon. I remember seeing their helmets bobbing nearby in the grass. That night was a nervous one.

Maybe it's time to attempt sleep now.  Tomorrow night is Da Nang. 

Neil

Krowl on LZ East after NVA Attack

April 12 1715 Vietnam Time Hoi An

OK, yesterday and today was a "day off" of sorts involving a couple visits to the nearby Eastern Sea An Bach beach here in Hoi An. Interestingly, the guy from whom I rented beach chairs was former VC. Both today and yesterday, we engaged in a few mock firefights, complete with hand grenades.

Three days ago we went to My Son, the Cham holy land, traversing there by car and back by boat. It's quite interesting and a World Heritage Site. Two days ago involved a boat trip to Cham Island, which has been inhabited by the Cham people for centuries.

I am pleased that Damn Guide (Thong) will be taking tomorrow off  from his guiding job to accompany us to LZ East (Hill 488) and Duong's house. With quite a military history on 488, and a perfect view of the old AO from the summit, I should be a good climb.  But, the heat will be a factor not to be taken lightly. Damn Guide, my daughter, and I climbed it in 2011.  It is my understanding that no American until then had ascended the hill since the war's end. Peering down from the top is an emotional experience, as men of A 3/21 196th Infantry lived, died, and endured unspeakable combat conditions throughout the visible area. It's an area of hills, terraces, rice paddies, and valleys where  determined Company A infantrymen repeatedly engaged an equally determined enemy. The lives that weren't ended were forever changed...sobering stuff.

Assuming survival of the LZ East climb (almost didn't on a four-man observation post once-NVA attack), we'll move on to Duong's place. There the hope is to find two needy recipients for his carts, as he is too weak of operate them. Working with hamlet officials is probably our best bet.

OK, the plan is to get picked up at this hotel at 0700 tomorrow by damn guide with a car I've hired for the day.  Overnight tomorrow will be in Da Nang with a flight to Saigon the following afternoon.
To be continued...

Neil